In my first post about the Robe a la Turque, I wound up with more questions than I answered, realizing I'd only just peeked into the rabbit hole that is 18th century orientalism.
In digging a little deeper, and chatting with ladies more knowledgeable than I, my plan of action on this particular portrait...
... is to make a totally separate robe (the blue part trimmed in fur), to be worn over a round gown, with the blue robe pinned at the neckline of the gown. This will allow the sash and belt to be tied around the waist. The robe will be cut like a Polonaise, with the back pieces in one with the skirt pieces, relying on inverted pleats and tucks to get the fullness.
Of course, this is not the final word on *all* Robes a la Turque. Some appear to be open like this...
Note from Abby: I'm advised that these three portraits, each of the same girl, are Russian and this type of gown is particular to this region. While it looks like a Turque, it may instead be a type of formal Rusian court gown.
and some are definitely sewn all together, like this one...
And there are other confusing points. For instance, are all Turques what we would call "zone front?" Apparently not...
Are all Turques short-sleeved? Can't really tell...
Are all Turques cut all-in-one in the back, with no waist seam? Nooo....
And what exactly is the difference between a Turque, Circassienne, Polonaise, and Levite? What is the defining feature that makes each gown different?
Leave it to those cheeky French fashionistas to remind us that we really have a pretty narrow view of 18th century fashion!
I have Abby of Colonial Williamsburg and Stay-ing Alive, Cassidy of A Most Beguiling Accomplishment, and Loren of The Costumer's Closet for help with piecing this together and learning more about how to make one of these gowns.
In digging a little deeper, and chatting with ladies more knowledgeable than I, my plan of action on this particular portrait...
... is to make a totally separate robe (the blue part trimmed in fur), to be worn over a round gown, with the blue robe pinned at the neckline of the gown. This will allow the sash and belt to be tied around the waist. The robe will be cut like a Polonaise, with the back pieces in one with the skirt pieces, relying on inverted pleats and tucks to get the fullness.
Of course, this is not the final word on *all* Robes a la Turque. Some appear to be open like this...
Note from Abby: I'm advised that these three portraits, each of the same girl, are Russian and this type of gown is particular to this region. While it looks like a Turque, it may instead be a type of formal Rusian court gown.
and some are definitely sewn all together, like this one...
And there are other confusing points. For instance, are all Turques what we would call "zone front?" Apparently not...
Are all Turques short-sleeved? Can't really tell...
Are all Turques cut all-in-one in the back, with no waist seam? Nooo....
And what exactly is the difference between a Turque, Circassienne, Polonaise, and Levite? What is the defining feature that makes each gown different?
 |
| Click to see this larger - these are all related, but considered different styles. But what makes this Circassienne, worn with the skirt *down*, not a Turque? And worn with the skirt pulled up, why is it not a Polonaise? Why is this Levite described "Levite as a Circassienne?" |
I have Abby of Colonial Williamsburg and Stay-ing Alive, Cassidy of A Most Beguiling Accomplishment, and Loren of The Costumer's Closet for help with piecing this together and learning more about how to make one of these gowns.
