American Duchess Historic Shoes Blog

This is just a quick post on underwear, in all its glory. As you know, I've started this latest 18th c. gown project with the basics, a proper set of proper undies.

My usual mode was to wear stays over a tanktop, and pull the straps down if they would show. I have my skirt supports, and one single full-length petticoat I wear for everything from 1560s to 1860s. And this time I didn't even have stays, on account of selling the gold pair. But never again!

This pair of stays fits my body much better than the green ones - they're higher in front, over the bust, and the strap tabs come up much higher on the sides and have a strip of boning in them to help with side-boob issues. I'm trying out the ribbon straps to see how I like them. I don't expect they'll lend the same kind of posture support as proper built-in straps, but we'll see how they feel, and if there are problems with slipping or cutting.

American Duchess Historic Shoes Blog

The petticoat is made of lightweight cotton muslin, but I can't believe how heavy it is! It is 5 yards in the skirt itself, pleated up to two waistbands (front and back), with pocket openings at the side. The flounce is 10 yards, gathered on a cord (MUCH easier than thread gathering), and rather painstakingly arranged onto the skirt. In truth, I hated making it, but I love the result. If you want to make a petticoat like this, I recommend following The Dreamstress' tutorial on making a flounce petticoat, mashed up with my tutorial on making an 18th c. petticoat.
American Duchess