Hello All!

We're excited to announce our "second" episode of Fashion History with American Duchess! Today, we are chatting with the lovely Samantha McCarty of The Couture Courtesan all about mourning dress during the American Civil War. I (Abby) have been lucky enough to listen to Samantha lecture on this subject on two separate occasions, and I still was completely enthralled by the wealth of knowledge that Samantha shared on the subject for the podcast.

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Samantha in Half-Mourning while attending Gettysburg Remembrance Day


Here are some example images & links to fabrics so you can make your own mourning attire:

Click Here to buy a modern (silk) crape substitute that Samantha recommends.

For worsted wool you can check out - Burnley & Trowbridge & Mood Fabrics

Full or Deep Mourning

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Woman in Full Mourning. Courtesy of Samantha
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Woman in Full Mourning with widow's cap and lappets (Courtesy of Samantha)

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Woman in Full Mourning from New York. (Ebay)
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English woman wearing a widow's cap with crape "folds" around the skirt of her dress, you can also see her white collar like what Samantha mentions! (Here)

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Samantha wearing Full Mourning with her veil pulled down.


Examples of Half or Light Mourning

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Samantha in a cotton Half Mourning Dress


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Half Mourning Dress from North Carolina Museum of History

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Black and Purple Silk Dress, 1860, MFA Boston


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Samantha in a silk taffeta half-mourning dress (Here)

Mourning Accessories

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Mourning Corsage of Abraham Lincoln, April 1865, Met Museum

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Framed in Memorial Hair Art, 1850, French, Etsy

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1880 Black Enamel & 18k Gold Memorial Ring, Erstwhile Jewelry


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Victorian Gutta-Percha & Gold Mourning Earrings, Ruby Lane

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Victorian Mourning Brooch with Acorn Motif, Whitby Jet, Amazing Adornments
We hope you enjoy the episode!


American Duchess