I do love me some OL and the show's been inspiring some Scottish-themed ideas, especially since I "rediscovered" a gorgeous tartan skirt that's been lurking in my closet the last 11 years, loved but unworn.

I thought I'd put together my take on 1740s Scottish attire (about which I know nothing), with a skirted jacket worn over a stomacher, paired with a wool petticoat, and the accompanying accessories. Here's my inspiration sketch:

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The tartan has come from a skirt I bought in Edinburgh when I was 19. Despite being very very American, way back we have Scottish ancestry, and one of our clans is Morrison. Unfortunately, the shop didn't have any Morrison skirts, so I got something that was close, which has turned out to be the Gunn tartan. The lighter fabric here is the Morrison, and the darker is the Gunn:

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complete with dog hairs. of course.
Lucky for me, Scottish kilts and skirts are constructed of one uncut length of wool. I unpicked the entire thing, soaked it in vinegar/water to pull the perma-pressed pleats out, and then steam ironed the flat, damp yardage. Now it's one nice length, ready to be cut for the jacket.
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The skirt before I deconstructed it.
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Laid out flat. The white circles are where there are moth holes, or small tears/frays in the fabric, so I will cut around those.
I will be using an altered version of the JP Ryan jacket pattern View A/B, which I acquired primarily for the sleeves, armscyes, and winged cuffs (I'm so tired of messing the sleeves and armscyes up *every* time!):
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JP Ryan jacket pattern - you can get it here

My inspiration jackets are these:

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Casaquin, 2nd quarter of the 18th c., from Galliera Musee de la Mode de la Ville de Paris - via Fripperies & Fobs
The above two are both continental European jackets - you see a lot of this type from Spain - but there is also this one with English origin:

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Kerry Taylor Auctions - 1740-45, made of Spitalfields silk - via
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Kerry Taylor Auctions - that back cut is gorgeous - via
Here's another from the Snowshill Wade Costume Collection (National Trust), with origin in France:

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1736-40 - click through for the record

Of course, my version won't be so grand in silk brocade, but I really like the subtlety of the tartan plaid, and I think it will be lovely.

More on this project, the stays and chemise to go under it, and the embroidered stomacher, coming up!

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