The #1 question we receive about Simplicity 8162 (and will with Simplicity 8579 as well) is how to lengthen or shorten the stays. Particularly with Simplicity 8162, the body block used came up a little short and most seamstresses are needing to lengthen the body of the stays a bit (I know I needed to).
So how do you do it?
Don't worry! The alteration is really easy.
The proper fit for stays should have the tabs "breaking" right at your natural waistline. The very top of those cuts/splits for the tabs should be at your waist - too high and you don't get a nice shape; too low and you'll have pinching.
{As always, make a quick mockup to test the fit on your body. For stays, lightweight cardboard and masking tape can do the job, or you can use a heavyweight fabric and just tape some of the bones in place to check the fit. Make a note of how much the stays need to be lengthened, then make the adjustment on your paper pattern.}
If your stays are too short, measure up about 1 inch from each of the tops of those tab cuts. Then "connect the dots" to draw the adjustment line. This line will be on an angle for most pieces.
Then just cut along that line and move the pieces apart as much as you need to lengthen the stays. Make sure the distance is the same on all pieces (example - 1/2 inch for all pieces). Tape the pieces to a new piece of paper and "true up" the seamlines by re-drawing the line with a ruler (this is particularly necessary when altering angled lines or curves).
Also check that your seams still match up.
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| See how the tabs flare over the hips? Special thanks to Maggie for this photo |
You can also use that adjustment line to shorten your stays, but and easier way is to just cut the tabs a little bit higher. Remember, the tabs should break just at your waist. If they are too low, a little clipping up on those lines on-the-body will set it to rights.
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See? That wasn't so bad!
Extra Tip: Now when cutting out your new, adjusted pattern, give yourself some contingency and cut all pieces with extra seam allowance, particularly on the neckline edge. This gives you wiggle room for re-marking the neckline should you feel it's still too low.
Happy sewing!
